I’ve finally acquired a piece of bike jewelry that I’ve been lusting over for quite some time now.
The Pro Vis 5, or Cyclotouriste cranks as they’re also called, from TA were rather popular cranks back in the day and continue to be a respected choice amongst randonneurs and tourists. Their unique bolt pattern and diameter allows the cranks to be used as a single, double, triple, even a quad, with any combination of rings available from 26 to 64 teeth.
Multi-Range Gearing
For my purposes, I’ve always wanted a wide-range double, what Sheldon Brown called multi-range gearing. Essentially it’s a crank setup that would give me the range of a triple crankset while still keeping the simplicity of a double, minimizing both the need to shift and the redundancy of duplicate gear ratios.
The Sugino compact double I had been using had a 48/34 combination which was pretty good, but not low enough for touring purposes unless I used mountain bike gearing in the back. I had been using an 11-34 cassette and a Deore LX derailleur. That was fine for a while, but not as elegant as my original 12-27 cassette and Dura Ace derailleur, and I didn’t like the big jumps between the large cassette cogs.
With the TA cranks and 46/26 tooth chainrings, I get an even lower range than previously afforded by the 34×34 combination, while benefiting from tighter shift steps throughout. With a 117.5mm bottom bracket, the large chainring lines up fairly close to the middle of the cassette, allowing me to use all 9 gears in the back while on the large chainring where I do about 90% of my riding. The 26-tooth chainring is used exclusively for serious climbing.
For the seriously geeky out there, here’s a gear-inches chart. With the large ring and the middle cog, the 46×17, I get 72.4 gear-inches. Anybody who’s done much fixed gear riding knows that’s in the perfect range for an all-around cruising gear. While there are some redundant gear combinations with the 26-tooth chainring and the smallest cogs, I wouldn’t use those combinations for a couple reasons. More on that in a bit.
| 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 17 | 19 | 21 | 24 | 27 | |
| 46 | 102.6 | 94.7 | 87.9 | 82.1 | 72.4 | 64.8 | 58.6 | 51.3 | 45.6 |
| 26 | 58.0 | 53.5 | 49.7 | 46.4 | 40.9 | 36.6 | 33.1 | 29.0 | 25.8 |
Low Q-Factor
The wide-range double gearing was my primary reason for acquiring the TA cranks, but a secondary benefit is their low Q-factor or crank tread, meaning the horizontal distance between pedal attachment points. When set up as a double, they have among the lowest Q-factor of any cranks out there. As Sheldon Brown writes, the benefits are as follows:
For most cyclists, the narrower the tread the better. When we walk, our footprints fall almost in a straight line under the center-of-gravity of our bodies. When we cycle, the “tread” forces our feet to be exerting their force farther apart than they are designed to do. Some theorists blame this for knee and hip problems experienced by some cyclists, but the jury is still out on this. A wider “tread” also creates a greater sideways force when pedaling out of the saddle, so the rider must exert more upper-body strength when riding “en danceuse”.
While I have zero data beyond empirical evidence and my observations are certainly without bias, I can say that the TA cranks feel noticeably better than the old Sugino XDs.
One cautionary note for such a low-q crank is the need to set up the front derailleur just right. When properly adjusted, my front derailleur, an old Shimano 600 FD-6207, has paper-thin clearance from the driveside crank arm.
I need to get the front derailleur this close to the crank arm, though, to get a proper front shift and to prevent the chain from rubbing the derailleur in the big/small combo.
Pushing Derailleur Capacity
When I went in to the local bike shop here in Tottori, Cycle Shop Fukuhama, looking for a new bottom bracket, the shop owner gave me a dubious look upon surveying my TA crank and equipped derailleurs. I knew it was coming. He gave me a warning and amongst a lot of Japanese were the words “total capacity,” and while I couldn’t understand exactly what he was saying I got the gist.
The capacity of the front derailleur is the difference between the large and small chainring. If the difference exceeds the derailleur’s capacity, then the chain will drag on the bottom of the derailleur cage while pedaling in the small chainring. Most modern double derailleurs have a capacity of 15 or 16 teeth. My vintage Shimaon 600 one has a capacity of 18 teeth. The difference between my chainrings is 20 teeth. It’s generally understood that the published capacities for components are on the conservative side and can be exceeded, so I wasn’t worried in this department. Plus Sheldon Brown had gone farther than I had in the past, using a 105 derailleur to shift a 50/28 combo on his Hetchins.
The thing that I was unsure about was whether or not I’d be able to use my existing rear short-cage Dura Ace derailleur. Rear derailleur capacity is based on how much chain slack it can take up, also known as chain-wrap. This is found by adding the difference between the largest and smallest chainrings to the difference between the largest and smallest cogs. For me, that looks like:
(46-26) + (27-12) = 35
My derailleur has a published capacity of 29 teeth. Again, this is a conservative number, but I was definitely past the reasonable margin of error. Any normally thinking person would use a medium-cage derailleur for this, which has a capacity of 37 teeth. I did not want to buy another derailleur.
I had managed to make a 50/34 compact crank with an 11-30 cassette work on my wife’s bike using a short-cage Ultegra derailleur, a 35 tooth difference for a derailleur that also has a 29 tooth capacity (as well as a max cog size of 27 teeth). Additionally, I had read of mountain biking weight weenies who opt for Dura Ace rear derailleurs rather than XTR ones to shave weight, getting the derailleur to even accept cogs up to 32 teeth.
So I tried to convince the shop owner that it was “OK!” and that “people on the internet say it works!” I’m not sure if Sheldon Brown is as renowned here in Japan, so I didn’t name drop. “Test-o! Test-o!” I insisted. He agreed to let me give it a shot and allowed me to borrow the shop tools for the bottom bracket and crank swap.
First I tried running the original chain length that I had on there as was properly measured for the 48-tooth chainring on the Suginos. That was too long, causing the chain to drag on the chainstay in the small/small combo. Too much chain, not enough chain-wrap capacity. So I shortened the chain, finding the length by wrapping it around the largest cog and the largest chainring. Normally, using that method, one would add two additional links for the derailleur to take up. I didn’t. Fortunately, it just barely worked.
This is how the derailleur looks when running the big/big, 46×27 combo. The rear derailleur is almost fully extended. This isn’t a ratio I’d be wanting to ride in regularly, nor should I be since if i need gears this low I’m probably on a hill and should’ve shifted into the small chainring. But if I do accidentally pop into this combo the good news is I won’t be tearing off my rear derailleur. This is a very real threat, too, when your chain is too short.
Here’s the chain in the small/small, 26×12 combo. The chain is pretty saggy, but it does clear the chainstay and under load it doesn’t look this bad. However, in practice I wouldn’t ride this combination anyways, or even the 26×13.
The shop owner was impressed. The moral of the story here is that parts can work beyond their specifications if you’re willing to tinker, but if you tear off your rear derailleur don’t blame me.
Pro Vis 5 Availability
The TA Pro Vis 5 cranks are sadly no longer in production, nor are any similar cranks like the Sugino PX or the Stronglight 49d. They show up on eBay with a fair amount of regularity. In the U.S., N.O.S. TA Pro Vis 5 cranks are available from Velo-Orange. Be prepared to pay a pretty penny. Velo-Orange sells the arms alone (no rings, no bolts) for $235. I paid significantly less that that for mine, but I’m not going to divulge my source (unless you ask really nicely) in case I want more sets in the future.
You may be able to find a pair hidden away in the dusty corner of an older bike shop. Cycle Shop Fukuhama actually had a whole box full of them that they pulled out when I asked them for a bottom bracket. I had no idea. They were selling them for ¥21000, about $210. Still more than I paid.
The good news is that, according to Velo-Orange, a “major crank manufacturer [is interested] in producing a TA Cyclotouriste-style crank set.” I’ll be keeping an eye out for it.
Browse Timeline
Comments ( 16 )
Thanks for writing about the new cranks. The TA Pro Vis are beautiful, and they make so much sense too. I’ve been thinking a bit about swapping out my triple cranks for something similar, and you bring up a several good points. Nice job making it work. Do you have any issues with the derailleur hitting the crank when you really lean on the non-drive-side pedal? How does this set-up work when you are crossing big chainring to big cog and small chainring to little cog?
I have short legs and narrow hips, which require 160-165mm cranks and low q-factor for pedaling comfort. I’ve been putting off buying the pro-5-vis from Velo Orange because of the price. Sooo… I would love to buy a pro-5-vis crankset for less than $235(without rings!). Pretty-please, would you tell me where to get one? If your source is super limited and you need to keep it to yourself, of couse I would understand. Also, I noticed that your cranks have very attractive silver or white decals which are different from others I have seen. Do you know if they are from a different era than those that have the black decals? Thanks,
-bill
*slowly building up an ’82 specialized sequoia*
@Stevep Having ridden a bit more now, I can say that the derailleur does occasionally knock the crank arm for whatever reason. Nothing jarring, but it’s a soft and noticeable “thunk”. When that happens I just trim the front derailleur in a bit.
The cross chaining gear combinations are ones I try to avoid. The big/big does work and you can ride it but I don’t ever stay there very long because I worry about damaging my derailleur. If I were to throw a medium-cage derailleur on the bike and lengthen the chain then I’d probably have no qualms running big/big.
The small/small has a pretty bad cross chaining and I wouldn’t use it even if the chain slack weren’t an issue. As it is, I pretty much never use the three smallest cogs while in the 26 chainring. By the time I get to that range I should’ve switched into the large chainring.
@Bill Unfortunately the place I got the cranks from only has 175mm ones in stock. If you’re looking for some with low q that is more affordable than the TA cranks, keep an eye out for Ritchey Logic cranks on eBay.
As for the decal, the cranks I have are not decal-covered at all. Instead it appears to be some kind of laser-etched logo mark. I could purchase one of the black decals available from Velo-Orange, but I rather like it as is. I’m not sure how this dates the product, however.
The cranks are gorgeous! I’ve been thinking about, and saving up for, one for the same reasons you decided to go with it. Could you tell me what sort of bottom bracket you use? Is it JIS or ISO (Campy-style)taper? What length did you use for your double to work?
Thanks!
The bottom bracket I’m using is an old Dura Ace loose ball bottom bracket, JIS taper, 117.5mm length (asymmetrical). I based my bottom bracket taper selection off of Sheldon Brown’s Hetchins bike on which he uses a 115mm JIS bottom bracket. Velo-Orange also recommends JIS taper bottom brackets with spindle lengths between 115 and 118mm. Sheldon Brown’s Bottom Bracket Size Database lists the official T.A. recommendation for a spindle length on a double as 118.5mm (asymmetrical), so the Dura Ace is a near exact match.
Cycle Shop Fukuhama had the real T.A. bottom brackets as well (the old loose ball ones, not their current sealed bearings) but they were about $30 more expensive than the Dura Ace I wound up getting, and to my eye the Dura Ace looked nicer.
Hi there,
I’m ready to build up my new Ebisu with this setup. My differential between the two chainrings isn’t as great as yours (mine is 46 x 32). Anyway, what I’m concerned about is the front derailleur cage rubbing the crankarm on each rotation. I haven’t yet built up this bike (nor received the frameset yet), but seeing how the crankarms are completely straight, I’m wondering if my Dura-Ace 7400 front derailleur will rub the arm?
How much clearance do you have between your arm and your front derailleur?
Also, Velo Orange told me the arms were ISO taper is this true?
Thank you in advance!
William
Hello Jon,
Excellent choice…
175mm is just what I’m looking for my 605b project, I’d really appreciate if you gave me the source to get them!
Regards
Pablo
Hi Jon,
I’m Building up a rambouillet like yours. I wanted to get the TA cranks from Velo orange but they are too steep for me and they dont have the larger outer chainrings in stock. Don’t want to be a pest but I would love to know your source for the cranks.
Hah, I guess there’s no reason for me to hog all the goodness. I got the cranks from spacycles.co.uk.
Hey Jon – Thank you for sharing your source for the cranks. A very good price indeed. I’m afraid to pull the trigger because I haven’t been able to find a source for the chainrings. Any idea where I might find some? Thanks.
You can get the chainrings from spa cycles as well, and also the various bolts you’ll need. Also from Velo Orange.
What pedals are those? They look like double-sided clipless that could have some kind of function as platforms, which would be awesome.
They’re Crank Bros. Quattro, which are discontinued but still widely available. I’m a big fan of Crank Bros. pedals in general and of their product line these are certainly the most amenable to riding with regular shoes, but I still wouldn’t ride’em that way for very long.
Jon, It all started when a Brooks B-17 Narrow saved my progeny and family line. Now I’ve just changed over to Dura-Ace friction shifting. Still, my big q-factor crankset makes me feel like I’m giving birth. Really, it was nice to save my progeny but this is going a bit far. I hear that “le facteur q” on the old Pro Vs is the next best thing to a mocassin-walk on a woods trail. Would you perhaps still know of this source for a cheaper TA crankset? I would be really appreciative.










